| I love you when it's humid, I love you when it's dry. I love you when you say the weather makes you want to die. I love you with your clothes on, I love you in the nude. I love you when you step outside and come back home with food. | |
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| Four walls of brick, the air outside unclear and, in the front room, white men drinking beer. Hanoi becomes a pleasureground at last; the ceiling fan moves moderately fast. The soundtrack: bebop - some inspired session direct from the American Depression. The floor feels vast, its tiling cracked but clean; I tap my foot, and open Graham Greene. | |
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| Some people have a liking for Siberia (its ruggedness, its panoramic grass) but, when I saw it, something like hysteria embittered me - and this was in First Class - realising, as each morning came to pass, I'd woken to a vehicle's sudden lurches and yet another window full of birches. | |
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| Wind, rampaging as it pleases, crafts a landscape as we pass, while my winking eyelid freezes curling patterns in the grass. | |
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| Siberia, under my eye, seems endlessly arid and dry with only one locus to narrow the focus: the line where the grass meets the sky. | |
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| Silver twists of morning cloud pierce the sky and stain the ground; powerstations form a crowd, trains emit a spiral sound. | |
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| I stopped in Moscow in the rain aboard a grounded aeroplane; and then I got the Bangkok blues so scanned my email, needing news. Alone in an enormous park I learnt I didn't like the dark; then, in Phnom Penh to see a school I drank posh drinks beside a pool with my good-looking Aussie friend - I thought my woes were at an end! But then at work I got queer looks - they didn't even want my books. The second day - an hour late - I turned up in a wretched state, yet meeting with the giant staff was so sincere I had to laugh. Then, elsewhere, facing genocide, I looked - but neither laughed nor cried. I let the telly set the tone for my three evenings home alone (that is, unless you count James Bond, four killers and a killer blonde). Election Day: the city drained, I watched some football, and it rained (but in that place it's always wet). My passport wasn't ready yet. I trailed a guy collecting trash then found a birthday boat to crash. Next day, I got into a flurry crafting tasty meatless curry. (He was cooking dinner, too: this made me feel bizarrely blue. Reaction? Spiders - fried - for tea plus beer beneath an ugly tree.) I shared one final western brunch then someone made my shoulders crunch. I fled the city, took a shower, crossed a river, scaled a tower, then - alone in awful weather - cheered our thirty months together. When the man had cut my hair I said: "could it be shorter, there?" The next day, fighting not to frown, I caught my bus, and left the town. Then Laos and my bungalow: my life became intensely slow. I stared at swollen waterfalls, ate vegetables, examined walls, read random books, slung out the hammock: I defined the undynamic. Then - a motorcycle ride so furious and fast I cried! I took my vegan dinner raw then noticed that my legs were sore: no matter - next day, on the run, I'd crossed my next frontier by one. North-Eastern Thailand's rather bland; I watched a noisy marching band. Then, back in Bangkok at a bar I had my hottest night by far, but found myself unsatisfied so spent my final night inside; and then - in clothes already worn - I caught the airport bus at dawn. | |
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| I'm often faced with feeling neither happiness nor sadness and once believed that this betrayed a kind of secret madness; but now I've learnt - by counting up the silly sighs I've heaved - my palette of emotions runs from Anxious to Relieved. | |
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| Squat, like a piece of over-ripened fruit that languishes half-buried in the mud, my bungalow - not beautiful, but cute - precariously hovers on the flood; and with each fresh apocalyptic thud I wonder what I'd do were she to sink and drop me (and my bedroom) in the drink.
And yet, for all my want of trust, she stands above the Mekong's omnipresent swish, unfussed by my unbalancing demands of peering here and there in search of fish. Each morning I renew my local wish: to pass the day serene and undynamic, slung out with some Jane Austen in the hammock. | |
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| Qiu Yi: a book to thank you for my stay at your delightful home - it's been outstanding. While I was here, I found that every day was balanced well: intense but undemanding. I hope you like the book. If not, expanding one's pile of texts is lovely in itself: an extra brick to decorate the shelf! (I've also bought a bottle full of gin - when yours is empty, this one shall begin...) | |
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